Check your dog’s nails every couple of weeks, trim only when they need it, and take off thin slivers rather than one big cut, stopping a couple of millimetres short of the quick. This guide follows vets at VCA Animal Hospitals, Washington State University and Cornell, and the animal charities PDSA, Blue Cross, Dogs Trust, RSPCA Australia and SPCA New Zealand, all checked on 22 October 2026. If the nails are very long, or your dog panics when you touch its paws, start with your vet.

Does your dog need a trim?

Not always. Dogs Trust says many dogs never need their nails clipped: it depends on their weight, breed, exercise, whether they walk on pavement or grass, and whether they have dewclaws (Dogs Trust). Daily walks on hard ground can be enough to keep nails short, it says, though a small, light dog may not weigh enough for that. If you’re not sure whether yours needs trims, ask your vet.

VCA’s vets say the nails are too long if they touch the ground when your dog stands, or click on a hard floor (VCA). Two UK charities disagree. Blue Cross says dogs can’t pull their nails in, so you’ll always hear them on hard floors, and that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re too long (Blue Cross). Dogs Trust says nails that touch the ground gently and are worn flat don’t need a trim. Its signs of a nail that does: the tip tapers to a thin point and starts to curve, or it snags on rugs, bedding or your clothes.

How often? VCA says about once a month for most dogs, and more often, such as every three weeks, for dogs that are inactive or never walk on hard ground. Dogs Trust suggests checking every couple of weeks: you’ll soon learn how often your dog needs a trim, if ever. Blue Cross says overgrown nails are more likely in dogs that are lame, arthritic or less active with age. Left too long, nails break more easily and can grow into the paw pads, causing painful wounds (RSPCA Australia).

Know the quick

The quick is the living part inside the nail, with blood vessels and nerves. It’s red or pink, so you can usually see it in pale nails, and it bleeds and hurts if you cut it (PDSA). It tapers to a point, so you can’t see its tip (Dogs Trust). Always leave a gap: PDSA says a few millimetres, VCA 2 to 3 mm, and Washington State University (WSU) never within 2 mm (WSU).

Clippers or a grinder?

Clippers. Use clippers made for dogs: PDSA says scissors and human clippers are likely to squash and split dog claws. Guillotine clippers (you feed the nail through a hole) and scissor-style ones both work (VCA), but sources differ on which is easier. WSU finds the guillotine type easiest, while SPCA New Zealand says many vets prefer scissor or plier styles, because a guillotine that isn’t sharp can crush the nail (SPCA NZ). Either way, keep them sharp: blunt clippers shred the nail (VCA).

Grinder. A rotary grinder files the nail down instead. VCA lists the pluses: a smooth edge, less risk of hitting the quick, and some dogs that hate clipping put up with it better. The minuses: it can catch in long hair, can badly burn the skin if it slips, and its dust can irritate, so it may be best used outside. Dogs Trust adds that grinders can take longer and are louder, so introduce one gradually, as you would clippers.

How to trim, step by step

Purdue University’s canine welfare scientists list what to have ready: clippers, treats, a lick mat and styptic (clotting) powder, and it may help to have a second person handing out treats (Purdue). Add a non-slip mat (Dogs Trust) and good light (SPCA NZ).

  1. Pick a calm moment (PDSA). Let your dog sit, stand or lie down, whichever it likes (Purdue).
  2. Hold the paw gently but firmly and press lightly on the toe to push the nail out (Purdue). On hairy paws, pull back the fur so you can see the whole nail (Dogs Trust).
  3. Take off a little at a time. VCA suggests 1 to 2 mm per clip, stopping at or near where the nail starts to curve, or sooner if you’re near the quick. WSU says to cut from underneath at a 45-degree angle.
  4. Check the cut end. On a white nail, SPCA NZ says a small black dot in the centre, surrounded by white, means you’ve cut enough.
  5. Do the dewclaws (below).
  6. Treat as you go (PDSA). You don’t have to do every nail at once (Blue Cross).

While you hold each paw, look between the toes for ticks, as RSPCA Australia suggests; see how to check your dog for ticks.

Black nails

You can’t see the quick in a black nail, so go slower:

  • Use a pale nail as a guide if your dog has one (PDSA). If all the nails are dark, ask your vet to show you where to cut.
  • Take thin slivers and look at the cut face after each one. WSU says that as you get deeper, a grey to pink oval appears at the top of the cut surface: stop there.
  • Try a torch shone through the nail (Dogs Trust).
  • Do the squeeze test. Dogs Trust suggests closing the clippers gently on the nail before you cut. If your dog pulls away, looks worried or yelps, the quick is there, so move towards the tip.

If you’re unsure, Blue Cross says it’s safer to let a vet or vet nurse do it: a dog whose quick gets nicked may not want anyone near its nails again.

The dewclaws

The dewclaw is the higher nail on the inside of the leg, like a thumb. It’s very common on the front legs, less so on the back, and a leg can have more than one (Dogs Trust). Dewclaws never touch the ground, so walks don’t wear them down, and they can curl round into the pad (VCA). WSU says a dewclaw can usually be bent away from the leg, because it’s attached by loose skin, and trimmed with scissor-type clippers.

If you cut the quick

PDSA’s advice: don’t panic.

  1. Put styptic powder on the end of the nail (VCA). No powder? Cornstarch (cornflour) or flour also helps a bleeding nail clot, says the Merck Veterinary Manual, as does pressing on it. PDSA suggests holding cotton wool on it.
  2. Keep up steady pressure. VCA’s first aid for a bleeding paw is to wrap it in gauze or a small towel and press; bleeding should stop in 5 to 10 minutes (VCA).
  3. Mind your hands. A dog in pain may bite, even a gentle one (VCA).
  4. If your dog is upset, stop. Give a treat and try again another time (PDSA).

Call your vet if the bleeding doesn’t stop, or your dog seems very distressed (SPCA NZ).

Getting a nervous dog used to it

Vets call this cooperative care: teaching a dog to take part willingly, at its own pace, with rewards instead of force (Cornell). Cornell says it’s best learned young: paw handling with a treat is on the list for your puppy’s first week.

Go in small steps, and move on only when your dog is relaxed at the step before (VCA):

  1. Put the clippers on the floor with treats round them, and let your dog sniff (Dogs Trust).
  2. Stroke from the shoulder down to the paw, then treat. Never grab the paw (Purdue).
  3. Clip a piece of dry pasta nearby so your dog hears the snap, then treat (Dogs Trust, Purdue).
  4. Touch the clippers to a nail without cutting, then treat (Purdue).
  5. Trim the very tip of one nail, then treat. Build up from there (Dogs Trust).

Keep sessions to a minute or two, a few days a week (VCA). A dog that isn’t afraid may need a session or two; a scared one, weeks or months.

Cornell’s signs of stress: lip licking, yawning when not tired, freezing, pulling away, showing the whites of the eyes. When you see one, stop and go back to the step your dog was happy with (Dogs Trust). With a dog that’s already scared, VCA’s behaviour vets warn against distracting it with food to clip quickly, which can damage its trust, and against holding it down, which risks making the fear worse.

When to see a vet or groomer instead

See your vet if:

  • A nail is growing into the pad (ingrown). Dogs Trust says your dog must be seen: it’s very painful and may be infected.
  • Your dog licks or chews a paw. Blue Cross says see the vet rather than trimming at home, since you could hurt a sore or infected paw; the cause is also more likely to be an allergy.
  • A nail is broken or torn. VCA says taking off the broken part is usually best left to your vet.
  • The nails are very overgrown and can’t wait for a slow trim (see the FAQs). A vet can trim them under light sedation, so there’s no struggle (VCA).
  • Your dog freezes, tries to escape or tries to bite. Stop, and ask your vet (Purdue), who may suggest anti-anxiety medicine or mild sedation (VCA).

A groomer can also do it. RSPCA Australia suggests the vet clinic or a trusted groomer for a dog that’s already unhappy about trims. In Bangalore, for example, home groomers usually include a nail clip in their bath package; see dog grooming at home in Bangalore. VCA’s behaviour vets disagree for a scared dog still in training: until the training is done, they advise not asking anyone, groomer or vet, to trim its nails, unless a vet does it under light sedation.

FAQs

How short should I cut my dog’s nails? Aim for about where the nail starts to curve, staying 2 to 3 mm short of the quick (VCA). On a black nail, stop when the grey to pink oval appears (WSU).

Is a grinder better for black nails? It can be. VCA says a grinder carries less risk of hitting the quick, and SPCA NZ suggests one for dogs with black nails or a fear of clipping. Introduce it gradually (Dogs Trust).

How do I trim nails that are badly overgrown? A little at a time. In a long-neglected nail the quick has probably grown longer too, so Dogs Trust suggests trimming a tiny amount, waiting a week or so for the quick to shrink back, and repeating over several weeks. If a nail is growing into the pad, see your vet first.

Written by Kaushik, Barfi's human and founder of FurFam. Facts in this guide were checked against the sources linked in the text on 22 October 2026. It has not been reviewed by a vet.
Note: This guide is based on the published sources linked in it. It is not medical advice. For any health concern, ask a qualified vet.

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